camp via ferrata rewind set
26th May 2009
We recently got Camp rewinds for local VF’s after looking at a bunch of other sets on the market.
The main choice comes to whether you want a stitched shock absorber like the Petzl or Black Diamond sets or ones with a friction device like this or the Salewa one for example. I’m not entirely happy with stitched ones, once you fall and tear through the stitching it’s good only for the bin and if you’re halfway up a VF at the time, assuming you’re able to continue, you’ve now got a non-functioning set. I think a lot of people argue that no one falls off a VF so it’s moot but I’m not much convinced by that argument, once I’ve left the ground on anything I try not to fall off
There’s a couple of Eastern European manufacturers knocking out VF sets and some of the local stores have them, they look reasonable, mostly friction devices and UIAA approved but some inferior quality around non-safety components. For example, I looked at one with the squeeze action locking carabiners and the squeeze mechanism felt flimsy, this matters I think as you end up bashing the gear around the crag.
I also felt I liked the squeeze action idea as opposed to the older twist lock and variants, a squeeze action is quicker and easier and there’s no failure case (I can detect) where the gate can be left partly open.
The other feature I liked in the Camp set is the elasticised lanyards, this really helps keep them out of way moving around and lets Camp get a half decent run of dynamic cord into the system without leaving the lanyard a metre over your head. This feature is available on other sets of course.
The only feature I saw on another set, the Petzl, was a extra loop from the harness attachment for resting that allows you to clip to a bit of gear. That looked like a good idea but I’m not sure in practice if it would be much use, it’s easier to keep a belay sling on and use that, it’s longer and I can clip to a couple of bits of gear as a rule so it’s more flexible.
Here’s Julie using the Camp rewind in France :
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May 27th, 2009 at Wed, 27 May 2009 09:42:35 +0200
Not so sure about no one falling off – I remember when Hannah was about 8, going on a week’s course around Barcelonnette in the southern French Alps. The first thing they made her do on while on a VF above a massive gorge was let go and dangle, somewhere in the middle. Then set off again, somehow.
You guys are nuts. I’m off for a quiet stroll, feet firmly on the ground.
May 27th, 2009 at Wed, 27 May 2009 09:53:41 +0200
I’d be interested to know what kit they were using there, VF kit is pretty much single use and you really, really shouldn’t be doing that and re-using the set and certainly not habitually. In stitched brakes I would think you run a risk of weakening the stitching and reducing the load required to unstitch it later. In friction brakes I’d expect you’re loading a very short rope section and again could weaken it. Not a big deal as a one off, and not a big deal for a light eight year old girl but just not a good idea. The kit used for canyoning, caving or high ropes courses would all be reasonable for that though I’d think.
May 27th, 2009 at Wed, 27 May 2009 11:06:21 +0200
Great Via Ferrata shots! I tested the Camp Rewind when it first came out and it’s by far one of the best KISA available. With regards to loading a Via Ferrata kit they are designed to reduce the fall factor as via ferrata cable is static, thus reducing the damage to the cable and the person involved in a fall. A fall with a factor of 2 is very different to loading a Via Ferrata kit gently which is what it sounds like. If a major fall is taken on a via ferrata (above 5 feet vertically to a stop) I would not recommend using the via ferrata kit again.
Some more information is here : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata#Equipment
May 28th, 2009 at Thu, 28 May 2009 20:30:12 +0200
Hi Ian,
Phil from the Pyrenees here. How’s things in Switzerland?
I’m looking at getting a VF set – how much does a set like this set you back? Are you pleased with them since getting them?
Let me know. Cheers,
Phil
June 5th, 2009 at Fri, 05 Jun 2009 18:55:47 +0200
Ok well that makes me feel a lot better Ian – glad I didn’t know that at the time. Sorry no idea about the kit, it was part of her then ski club’s summer training, they went off for a week with the Gap climbing club.
June 11th, 2009 at Thu, 11 Jun 2009 16:13:30 +0200
thanks for that Sam! for the non technical, Sam refers to KISA which is a Kinetic Impact Shock Absorber